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Abstract Seamless shaped technology creates entire complete garment with minimal or no cutting and sewing to produce finished or semifinished garments. It has a number of advantages over the traditional cut and sewn products. Cutting and sewing are often manually executed which introduces human errors. The sewing process can create needle holes and damage the fabric. Seamless shaped method eliminates the cut and sews processes, shortens the manufacturing process and reduces material wastage. In addition, seams in garments create bulkiness especially at the shoulders and underarms, which may adversely affect the comfort of the user. On the other hand, seamless shaped articles offering greater comfort and better fit to wearers by eliminating seams. There were trials to produce seamless woven fabrics using weaving machines by making some changes on the machine setting to produce woven tubular fabrics which can be used to produce seamless shaped articles. Most of these trials were used in medical applications (narrow fabrics) and some other trials made to produce seamless shaped garments (wide fabrics). Most of these trials have limitations and need more studies. This research aimed to produce seamless shaped woven garments with predetermined dimensions using tubular double cloth woven fabrics with different structural parameters to produce shapes. To achieve this goal, the research covered the following steps; Summary XII 1. Study the effect of changing different structural parameters such as; (weave structure, pick density, weft tension, weft yarn count and weft yarn type) on the fabric width shrinkage using Six different weft yarns listed below: - 100% cotton yarn of 20/1, 30/1, 40/1 and 40/2 (Ne) - Cotton – Polyester (25 – 75%) yarn of 40/2 (Ne) - Cotton – Polyester (50 – 50%) yarn of 16/1 (Ne) - Cotton – Spandex (94.7 – 5.3 %) yarn of 15/1 (Ne) - Cotton – Spandex (93.3 – 6.7 %) yarn of 20/2 (Ne) - Cotton – Spandex (96.9 – 3.1 %) yarn of 26/1 (Ne) 2. One warp (40/2 Ne Cotton – Polyester (25 – 75 %) was used to produce all fabric samples formed for this research. 3. Four groups of fabrics have been produced in a total of 83 different tubular fabrics as follows; - group (1) includes tubular woven fabrics with different weave structures; Plain 1/1, Twill 1/3 and Sateen 4. Weft yarn materials used for this group include non elastic yarns, 40/2 Ne Cotton-Polyester (25 – 75 %) and 40/2 Ne 100% Cotton, and yarns containing spandex of counts 15/1, 20/2 and 26/1 Ne Cotton-Spandex (94.7 – 5.3 %), (93.3 – 6.7 %) and (96.9 – 3.1 %) respectively. - group (2) was formed from tubular woven fabrics with three different pick densities – 18, 20 and 22 picks/cm – for each layer of the double fabric in a total of 36, 40 and 44 picks/cm, respectively, for the whole fabric using Summary XIII elastic and non elastic wefts. The non elastic weft yarns include 20/1, 30/1 and 40/1 Ne from 100% Cotton, while the elastic weft yarns include 15/1 and 26/1 Ne Cotton-Spandex (94.7 – 5.3 %) and (96.9 – 3.1 %) respectively. - group (3) was produced from tubular woven fabrics with three different weft tensions (low, medium and high), using 16/1 Ne Cotton-Polyester (50 – 50%) as a non elastic weft and 15/1 Ne Cotton-Spandex (94.7 – 5.3 %) as an elastic weft. - group (4) includes tubular woven fabrics produced to study the effect of changing weft yarn counts on fabric shrinkage using 100% Cotton weft yarns in three sizes, 20/1, 30/1 and 40/1 Ne. 4. A shuttle weaving machine (Tsudakoma “LK” type loom), model year 1977, used to produce all fabrics throughout double cloth technique which consist of two series of warp threads, and two series of weft threads, face and back, making a two-ply fabric, upper layer and lower layer. 5. All fabrics produced were washed, dried and heat set without applying tension. 6. The width shrinkage percentage was calculated for each fabric. The shrinkage was determined for fabric off the loom (grey) and finished state by traditional measurement of the fabric width in grey and finished states. 7. The produced fabrics were evaluated and relationships were studied as follows: Summary XIV - The effect of changing different structural parameters (weave structure, pick density, weft tension, weft yarn count and weft yarn type) on fabrics dimensional changes has been studied. These include: · The effect of changing the weave structure on the fabric shrinkage · The effect of changing the pick density on the fabric shrinkages · The effect of changing the weft tension on the fabric shrinkage · The effect of changing weft yarn count on the fabric shrinkages · The effect of altering yarn type (yarns containing spandex and yarns without spandex) on fabric shrinkage 8. The 83 fabrics using different structure parameters in this study were arranged in an ascending order in terms of the finished width. 9. A total number of 12 hypothetical ladies outer garments were designed and constructed using one tubular woven fabric for each garment. The designs made by combining more than one fabric with different finished shrinkage along the length of the same garment. Garments were designed to fit different sizes (S, M, L and XL) depending mainly on three basic measurements; bust, waist and hips according to the standard women’s body of W. Aldrich. The Summary XV first 6 designs combining two or more fabrics with high difference in finished width in one garment gives the effect of gathering. The other 6 designs were made to shape the bodyline by combining several fabrics with different width using the same fabric’s width on the loom. 10. 16 designs for ladies outer garments were established using different combinations of fabric specifications for each design to achieve the target size according to the shrinkages results of the 83 experimental fabrics. These combinations are varied to obtain different sizes of women’s garments according to the main measurements of the standard women’s body of W. Aldrich. 11. Designs made to be suitable to be worn without any need to use closures to obtain diversity of shapes. 12. Special finishes such as dyeing and printing were used for the fabrics in order to form end products. 13. The end products are semi-finished garments with no side seams. Each item has been modeled using a suitable manikin size. Cutting of some additional parts of fabrics and sewing using special seams to finish the products such as neckline, armholes and hem lines using suitable sewing machines. 14. The Australian Standard stitch type’s reference was used to add certain stitches to accomplish the semi-finished garments by joining or by adding decoration. 15. The Australian Standard reference for seams was used as a guide to the choice of seam types according to the aesthetic standards of strength, durability, comfort, convenience in Summary XVI assembly based on resources available (machinery and cost). 16. Using special sewing machines for identical stitches to finish the end products. Key Words: Seamless, tubular fabrics, shaped woven textiles, fabric shrinkage, double cloth, structural parameters. |